Surprise Canyon and the Panamint City Ghost Town
The 1873 Silver Smelter made of 500,000 red bricks.
Panamint City, Death Valley National Park, USA. December 12-14, 2025.
We kicked off our three-day adventure on Friday morning, meeting in the historic desert outpost of Ballarat, California. From there, we shuttled vehicles up the rugged road toward the trailhead at Chris Wicht Camp in the Surprise Canyon Wilderness. The drive was slow and bumpy, and we were grateful for high-clearance, four-wheel drive. Eventually, a washout about half a mile from the trailhead stopped us and so we began our hike here… right as I got out of the truck I was greeted with the sound of the national wild and scenic Surprise Canyon Creek. What a trip to see and hear flowing water deep in a desert canyon!
From our road’s end, we followed a rough and often disappearing trail 5.5 miles and climbed over 4,000 feet up Surprise Canyon toward Panamint City. The hike began in lush, narrow canyon walls where the trail often was the creek! Cool, clear water flowing shin-deep flanked by thickets of willows and various reeds and thrushes. About halfway up, the canyon opened dramatically into wide, sweeping terrain (Surprise!) with towering walls rising nearly 3,000 feet to the rim of the Panamint Range above us. The contrast between the shaded narrows and the expansive upper canyon was striking.
We knew we had reached Panamint City when the iconic silver smelter came into view… essentially a red brick chimney over 150 years old and perched more than 50 feet above the canyon floor. It’s an unmistakable landmark and a powerful reminder of the area’s mining history. We made camp nearby, settling in beneath pinyon pines and desert skies.
Day two was dedicated to exploration. We spent the morning wandering the canyon and diving deep into its mining past. One highlight was entering a tunnel stretching more than 2,000 feet straight into the mountain. Standing at the far end, the entrance behind us was no larger than a pea of light… an eerie yet fascinating experience! We also visited several old mining cabins dating from the 1930s and 1960s, and walked along an incredibly well-engineered mining trail from the 1870s. Nearly perfectly level, this historic trail led us to one of the oldest mines in the canyon and showcased the ingenuity and determination of early miners.
On our final day, we enjoyed a relaxed descent back down Surprise Canyon, retracing our steps through the lush narrows and flowing water. With no rush and great weather, it was the perfect way to soak in the scenery one last time before returning to the desert floor.
It really was a fantastic trip… beautiful weather, spectacular landscapes, and an incredible mix of natural beauty and history. And despite spending three full days in Surprise Canyon, it was clear we had only just scratched the surface.
Join us on our next expedition up Surprise Canyon to see and learn about the magnificence that is Panamint City.
Thanks for reading! If you are interested in learning more about our trip to Panamint City, please reach out.
See you in the desert!
Cheers,
Larry
